Learning to play is as much about learning the language of the game as its techniques.

Tee
The grass platform from which the first shot on each hole is taken. This term also refers to the plastic or wooden peg used to raise the ball above ground level for a tee shot.

Fairway
The mown stretch of grass that provides a clean stretch from the tee to the green which, in turn, is home to the hole, the position of which is indicated by a flag.

Rough
Long, unkempt grass bordering the fairway that lies in wait for wayward wood or iron shots.
The most visited hazard on the course.

Bunker
A hollow filled with sand, bunkers can be found both on the fairway and surrounding the green, and are the most recognisable, and sadly most visited, hazard on the course.

Par
The average number of shots that should be taken in playing the ball from the tee and in to the hole. Has come in to common usage in the phrase "par for the course", meaning to be expected. In simple terms, if the par for the course is 72 and you take 72 shots to complete the 18 holes, then you've made par.
Completing a hole one shot less than the par.

Birdie
Not a reference to one of the wives of the Ryder Cup team, as some less than politically correct newspapers recently stated, but completing a hole in one shot less than its designated par.

Eagle
Taking two shots less than the par for a single hole. Now, that's just showing off, isn't it?

Albatross
Not a term that ever enters most golfers' vocabulary, it denotes taking three shots less than the par for a single hole.

Bogey
This one sounds more familiar: taking one more shot than the par for a single hole. Double bogeys are another common occurrence. The most embarrassing shot in the game.

The shank
Surely the most embarrassing shot in the game. It occurs when the player strikes the ball with the part of the club where the shaft meets the head, known as the hosel. More commonly experienced by beginners due to poor weight distribution resulting in a defect in the swing, the shank nevertheless has on occasions arisen during rounds by much more experienced individuals.

Fore
A shouted warning when other golfers are deemed in danger from being hit by a wayward ball.

 

What separates the great champions from the also-rans, the good club players from those thrashing around? In a word, practice. The amount of time you put in, improving on the basics of the game will determine how quickly you improve.

No one can dispute the fact that beginners must invest in lessons. Swinging a golf club requires a lot more skill than people might think. Not only has both the upper- and lower-body got to be right, but there is the grip to think of, too, as well as the mechanics of the swing. Yes, some individuals are naturally more gifted than other, but no one comes to the game cold and instantly hits the ground running.

Unfortunately, in all too many cases, once those beginners’ lessons are out of the way, practice becomes to be viewed as strictly for beginners. It is true to say, golf courses have more than their fare share of know-it-alls who can’t see the flaws in their game and put poor scores down to the elements, their clubs, or just simple bad luck. But the fact of the matter is that these players are deluding themselves. So mistaken are they in the belief that they have nothing left to learn that they carry on regardless.

Those blessed with more commonsense realise that you never stop learning the game; that there is always room for improvement. It is surprising the difference that practice sessions can make. They provide the chance for both yourself and others to assess your technique and make small adjustments that could translate into significant improvements on the course.

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As with all golf equipment, there is a wide choice when it comes to deciding on a putter.

It's what suits the individual that is important. Some players swear by the more traditional blade, others the peripheral weighted head. Then there is the chunkiest of the three basic types, the mallet. In terms of length, again we are looking at three categories: conventional, belly and long putter. The conventional has the shortest shaft of the three, between 33 to 36 inches, which means the player leans forward in the stance in order to see the line between the ball and the hole. The relative short length of the shaft also means that you gain a greater feel of the contact between the ball and the club face. The belly is of 41 to 46 inches and is designed so that the end of the shaft rests against the midriff of the player, providing extra stability.

The long putter, between 48 and 52 inches, is sometimes referred to as a broomhandle. The player adopts an upright stance and the stroke is reminiscent of a sweeping movement, hence the name.

In terms of the face of the putter, players can now choose from metal, insert and groove. Again, metal is the more traditional, manufactured from, among other materials, steel, aluminium or titanium; the insert features a non-metal piece with the club face resulting in the weight distribution of the head being shared between the heel and toe. Some models feature grooves which help the forward roll of the ball.

The grip is another consideration: the thinner variety offers more feel, thicker ones reduce the possible influence of the hands and wrists.

Then there's the price, as with all types of equipment you can pay anything from £20 upwards depending on what your wallet will allow and what takes your fancy. Don't forget the second-hand option if you want to limit what you spend.

You can be faced with a bewildering choice. But the key is finding the putter with the characteristics that suit both your technique and physique and this is very much a question of trial and error. And even when you find one that you feel comfortable with, it may be that as your game progresses you decide to switch. On the other hand, faults in your putting may develop over time which necessitates a rethink.

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There is nothing more satisfying than holing a 20-foot putt. The flip side is the short two- or three-footer than looks like a shoe-in but slips tantalisingly past the hole.

Why do these short-putt disasters happen? After all, even for the relatively inexperienced golfer, these are not the type of shots that appear to represent too much of a problem. All too often, the problem is that a player rushes the shot. Even the easiest looking tap-in requires you to settle yourself over the shot, take time to clear your mind and concentrate on the task. Fail to do this, and you run the risk of compromising your technique and preventing a nice clean contact between the face of the putter and the ball.

The best way to avoid these problems is to practice, to the point where almost without thinking you follow a set routine when addressing the ball for a short putt. These practice sessions will also allow you to look at which part of the hole the ball tends to be hitting. Of course, dead centre is the ideal spot, so if, for example, the ball is tending to rolling to the right- or left-side, analyse why this is happening. What are your feet doing? Are you remembering to get your hands right? Perhaps the problem is that you are tightening on the backswing, or pulling the follow-through short. Any of these technical faults can result in a less than perfect contact with the ball.

So take time to address your putting. It may not be the stuff of fairy-tale endings or leave playing partners in awe of your ability on the green, but it will ensure that closing out holes becomes second nature.

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Discipline is one of the essential qualities needed to make progress in the game of golf. It is one thing to teach beginners the fundamentals, quite another to ensure that they stick to them. The chief culprit in this respect is over-confidence. A pupil may be progressing nicely and then, suddenly, their game begins to deteriorate. What's going wrong? All too often they think they know the game, become lazy in applying the lessons they have learned and before long they are back to square one. That is why it is vitally important to repeat techniques until they become second nature.

This situation can arise all too frequently in the way a player grips the club. Whether they have decided to adopt the interlocking, double-fisted, overlapping or Vardon grip, the principle remains the same. Do not deviate from what you have learned or things will go wrong. Incidences of lazy technique in this area often manifest themselves in poor shots such as the hook or slice where incorrect handling of the club results in the club face making poor contact with the ball. So before even thinking about where you want to put the ball, take hold of the club in the same way you did when you first learned your grip and don't allow the hands to slip too far round the club, a mistake often referred to as a weak grip.

Your performance may also be suffering because you are holding the club too tightly. Remember that a light but firm amount of pressure is all that is needed, otherwise you are only going to impede the swing of the club.

In terms of equipment, you may decide that investing in a glove to wear on the leading hand will bring improvement. Some players even wear a pair of gloves. Those who favour a glove, or gloves, believe there is a benefit in terms of feeling they are gaining a secure hold of the club, especially if perspiration can sometimes be a problem. However, there are many players who feel that a glove makes absolutely no difference and are merely a golfing fashion statement. On this point, it's very much a matter of personal choice. But crucially, whatever the effectiveness of a glove, if wearing one improves your game, then go right ahead and keep on using it.

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Let's face it, none of us possesses the perfect swing.

Even for those of us who believe we're progressing nicely in terms of scoring and feeling physically good, the odd tweak here or there could result in tangible benefits.

Overconfidence is one of the dangers facing swing action, so don't fall into the trap of believing that increasing the speed of your swing means that you are becoming a better player. Snapping back on the backswing and quickly forward towards the ball may actually cause you to hit the ball incorrectly. So don't rush things. Keep thinking about each element of the swing as you execute it. One method is to pause at the top of the backswing, giving yourself time to mentally and physically gear yourself up to attacking the ball in a more measured way.

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Great tennis players or cricketers often talk about knowing when they are at the top of their form because the racket or bat feels like an extension of their arm. The same holds true in the game of golf. If the club is moving in perfect time with the body, then the swing action is going to be a fluid one and the result is going to be a smooth contact between club face and ball.

Posture is not only about maximising your technical ability but also is crucial in avoiding any physical stress or strain.

As a routine to achieve correct posture, stand parallel to the line of the ball with your feet positioned directly below each of your shoulders. Take the club and hold it out straight in front of you and then slowly lower it, bending from the hips as it descends, until the club head is resting on the ground. It should be noted here that the action of bending is coming from the hips - on no account bend your back, rather it should be straight, providing a central line around which the rest of the upper body can manoeuvre smoothly and efficiently during the swing action.

The next important point is checking your balance. Lightly shift your weight from one foot to the other in a bouncing movement and flex the knees to bring the torso slightly forward. Remember to keep that back straight. Is your lower body feeling flexible and acting as a solid, stable foundation for the trunk shoulders and head to move freely above it?

Step away from the ball, repeat the drill outlined above and take a number of practice swings. How does that feel? What you want to be experiencing is a smooth action from the head to the toes and a club head that moves from backswing to follow through in one rhythmic movement. Step forward, address the ball and take a shot. At the end of the swing, do you still feel that your body is in a balanced position?

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Equipment
A player may use any club as long as it’s a putter.
The player MUST use a course ball. All balls in the grouping should be a different colour or easily discernible.  The balls must be of the same type.

Group Size and Playing order
Ideally you should have group sizes of 2 or 3. This enables each player to start on the same number of holes. For example, with a group size of two, one player would go first on the odd numbered holes and the other player would go first on the even numbered holes.

General rules
Deliberate play to hit another’s ball utilising your own ball, is allowed. However, deliberate striking of another’s ball with your putter is NOT allowed. Occasionally an accidental hit may occur where the balls are very close together.

The highest possible score at any hole is 7. If after 6 shots the ball has not been holed it is picked up immediately and a 7 is recorded on the scorecard.

Tee off
The first shot at every hole is to be played from the teeing off area. The teeing off area should be defined. For example in the Virgin Money World Crazy Golf Championships:
Crazy-Golf, anywhere within the marked tee-off area. 
Mini-Golf, anywhere behind an imaginary line drawn from the end of the bricks in the tee off area.

All players in the group tee off before any of the players play their 2nd shot.  Subsequent to all tee shots having been played, strictly furthest away plays first (this isn’t putting on a golf green!)

Holed ball
A ball is deemed holed when it comes to rest in the hole.  It must be removed before any other shots are played.  If a player's ball is knocked into the hole by another ball the score recorded for that player is the number of shots taken up until that point.

Repositioning
A ball should only be repositioned when it’s that players turn to play.
When a ball comes to rest alongside or near to the perimeter boundary of a run, or to an obstacle, plateau or immovable obstruction, it can be repositioned (only by hand) up to 20 cm or 8 inches from it at no penalty. Repositioning is to allow the player a proper back-swing and/or follow-through. A ball must not be repositioned other than at 90 degrees to the obstruction in order to provide a direct line of sight to the hole if one did not exist from where the ball originally came to rest. Where two or more balls need to be repositioned their relative position to each other must be maintained.

Ditch, bunker and water hazards
When a ball comes to rest in a ditch, bunker or water hazard, it may either be played from where it lies (where the general repositioning rules apply) or, at a penalty of one stroke, it may be replaced on the green (in any direction) within 20 cm (8 inches) of the ditch, bunker or water hazard.

Obstacles
When a ball in play comes to rest within an obstacle construction such that it is unplayable it must be repositioned outside the obstacle in the direction from which it came at no penalty.

Pipes
When a ball in play becomes trapped inside a pipe, it may be repositioned by hand up to 20cm (or 8 inches) and at 90 degrees from the exit of that pipe. No penalty will be incurred.

Border lines
On holes with border lines, an obstacle is deemed to have been passed when a ball touches or has touched the border line with its point of contact.

Ball leaving the playing area
When a ball leaves the playing area and comes to rest 'out of bounds', the ball should be replaced on the playing area at its exit point at no penalty. The ball may then be repositioned when it’s that players turn to play.

If a ball leaves the playing area and then returns of its own accord, the ball is deemed to be still in play and can be played from where it lies, providing this is within the playing area. No penalty. 

Ball rolls back to the tee
When a ball in play rolls back to the teeing off area and comes to rest, it can be played from any point within the teeing off area. The original stroke is counted in the player’s score.

Marking the position of the ball
If, through the influence of the weather, a ball in play is moved having already come to rest, it may be repositioned only if it has been previously marked and only at that point. A ball moved by other outside influence, can be repositioned where it first came to rest.

 

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